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Technical Articles
| 07-22-2001 |
If you need more ground clearance, more tire clearance, more flex, more height, or more strength, you need a suspension lift. I chose Rubicon Express because they are of superior construction, durability, and don't sag in the springs as much as everyone else. Besides that, everyone I go wheeling with has them and swears by them. Now I swear by them too. The other cool thing I never noticed until I got the lift kit is that all of the components match my paint. All silver powedercoated parts look really cool under a silver Jeep.
Total time to install this lift for me was about 12 hours, but it was 105° all weekend in my brother's garage. If the right parts came on the first shipment and the temperature was below 80°, that time could have easily been reduced to 6 hours. My TJ is new enough that every bolt or other fastener came off with hand tools and very little elbow grease (or PB blaster). The only thing that gave me trouble were the JKS quick disconnects I installed a year ago. JKS wants you to Lok-Tite all the bolts in place, which made Gonzo (the sawzall) a necessary tool for this install.
Another note would be the usefulness of a right-angle drill. I can't even imagine the trouble it would have been to drill all the required 5/16" holes without it. I rented it for a day from Home Depot for $14. Well worth the cash. This can be done in a different order. I have listed the removal of front and rear components together, and separated the front and rear installation procedures.
See also - Special Notes on my Lifts
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- Raise the Jeep and support frame with jack stands.
- Remove front and rear wheels.
- Remove front and rear shocks.
- Remove front and rear sway bar end links.
- Remove front track bar.
- Remove the plastic dust shield that covers the bolt securing the rear track bar to the mount on the axle housing. This cover is not reused.
- Remove the T55 torx head bolt and disconnect the axle end of the rear track bar.
- Remove front and rear springs. Note that the front driver side spring has a spring clamp which must be reused.
- Support the front and rear axles with jack stands.
- Remove front and rear lower control arms.
- Remove front factory brake lines by disconnecting the coupler located in the front wells. Replace the brake lines with new supplied stainless steel braided lines.
- Drill 5/16" hole in center of lower spring pads.
- Use the self-tapping bolt (supplied) through the spacer to tap threads in the lower spring pad hole just drilled. Remove the bolt and spacer it will be installed with the front springs.
- Front Installation
- Install the zirc fittings into the lower control arms.
- Install the lower control arms with the rubber bushing at the frame, reusing the factory bolts. Position the control arms so that the tube offset is at the bottom.
- Install the front springs with the 2" bump stop spacer inside the coil. With the coil spring in place, thread the bolt into the lower spring pad.
- Rotate the front driver side coil to index the pigtail to the pad indent.
- Install the spring clamp removed in step 8.
- Install the 2.5" bar pins through the bottom shock eyes and install front shocks.
- Install adjustable track bar per the instructions provided here. If reusing the stock track bar, drill a new hole for the track bar in the track bar mount on the axle. Install the front track bar.
- Install the sway bar disconnects per the instructions provided here.
- Rear Installation
- Install track bar bracket using the supplied 1 1/2" bolt. This bolt goes through the original track bar bolt hole.
- With the track bar bracket in place, drill 5/16" holes in the axle mount where the plastic dust shield plastic fasteners were located.
- Install the 5/16" hardware in the holes just drilled out.
- Install the lower control arms with the rubber bushing at the frame, reusing the factory hardware.
- Remove the rubber insert from the rear bump stops. Remove the bump stop cup. Plase the 1 3/4" spacer between the cup and the frame using the supplied longer bolt.
- Install rear springs. Note: The driver side spring will require prying or spring compressors because of the limited axle travel due to the track bar.
- Install the provided extended rear sway bar end links.
- Install the rear shocks using the supplied 3" bar pin on the upper shock eyes.
- Install the wheels.
- Lower the vehicle to the ground and adjust the front track bar to center the front axle per the track bar instructions.
- Thoroughly bleed the front brake lines and check for leaks.
- If not installing a motor mount lift, install the transfer case drop pucks.
- Double check all nuts and bolts for tightness.
- Test drive and note the location of the steering wheel.
- Adjust the drag link to center the steering wheel. Lengthen the tie rod to set the toe.
- Get a professional alignment as soon as practical. Set the castor to factory minimum and moderate toe in.
- Troubleshooting Vibrations
- Acceleration Vibration:
- Caused by the pinion being too high in relation to the transfer case shaft output shaft. To correct, shorten the upper arms, if possible, to lower the pinion.
- Deceleration Vibration:
- Caused by the pinion being too low in relation to the transfer case output shaft. To correct, lengthen the upper arms, is possible, to raise the pinion.
- Slip Yoke Vibration:
- Caused by excessive wear on the transfer case slip yoke. Commonly occurs on lifted vehicles with more than 30,000 miles. To correct, install a slip yoke eliminator kit and replace the rear driveshaft.
- Bump Steer:
- Caused by improper relationship of drag link and track bar. To correct, center axle again following the instructions supplied with the track bar. Next determine the neutral position of the steering wheel. Adjust the drag link to center the steering wheel.
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Scrappy with an extra 3 1/2"
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Old and new front brake lines
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Rear trackbar bracket installed
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Installing rear bump stop spacer and cup
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Installing lower control arms
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New mounting bracket for front brake lines
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Drilling 5/16" hole in front spring pads
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Installing front shocks
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